Monday whispers: Florian Barbarot… somewhere in the abyss, Manon Fleury back in Paris, we found Jean-Christophe Perrin, Da Roco in London, Fanny Mijon princess vegan, the Pudlo of bistros is coming, in Monaco Em Sherif replaces Omer | Gilles Pudlowski’s blog

Florian Barbarot… somewhere in the abyss

Florian Barbarot and Thibault Daubresse © GP

He was quarter-finalist at Top Chef season 10 (it was in 2019), chef de partie at the Auberge de l’Ill, then sous-chef at the Auberge de la Pomme aux Damps, worked, in the meantime , at Daniel Boulud in New York and at Lampart’s, near Basel in Switzerland. In short, after familiarity with the stars in other people’s homes, this traveler from Isère dives into his own bath and makes us dive deliciously with him. It’s called “Somewhere”. And we are there in the abyss… 1 Rue Ambroise Thomas in the 9th, not far from the Parisian Grands Boulevards. The first floor of its table in green tones is dedicated to bistronomy. The basement, with its transparent kitchen labs, allows you to admire the work of its team of enthusiasts who strive to develop fine, exquisite, playful and rigorous, vegetal and iodized things. In short, it’s time to discover Florian Barbarot, 30 years old and full of energy as much as enthusiasm, like the sommelier Thibault Daubresse, who worked with him, formerly, at Haeberlin. We will mention only one dish, his piece of bravery: red tuna cooked over a wood fire, kebab style, in the dining room, served on puffed bread, with its heart of red tuna tartare, pickled zucchini, plus a Pont Neuf apple. Stars in sight!

Manon Fleury, back to Paris

Manon Fleury at the time of Mermoz © GP

We announced to you, a fortnight ago, the arrival of Mélanie Serre in Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, at the Elsa restaurant at the Monte-Carlo Beach, where she replaces Manon Fleury. The latter, who will only have had a brief season on the Côte d’Azur, is returning to Paris very soon for two months of “residence cuisine”. She should open at the end of the year, still in the capital, a table in her name. We recall that this former junior fencing champion, discovered at Mermoz, near the Champs-Elysées, after her years of training with William Ledeuil (Ze Kitchen Galerie), Alexandre Couillon in Noirmoutier, Pascal Barbot at Astrance and in the USA at Dan Barber’s Blue Hill at Stone Barn is a cook like no other. This e-khâgneuse, who had chosen cooking, via the Ferrandi school, out of passion, had notably been a columnist at France Inter with our friend François-Régis Gaudry for his program “On va goûter”. To follow very soon.

Jean-Christophe Perrin the return

Jean-Christophe Perrin © GP

We knew Jean-Christophe Perrin once at Toiny in St Barth – that was thirty years ago! -, then at the Moulin de Brantôme in Périgord and at La Galupe in Urt in the Basque country with his “kitchen dad”, Christian Parra, finally at the Caveau d’Eguisheim, where he played sophisticated and starred cuisine with beautiful rustic notes . Here is this native of Luxeuil, of Vosges origin, within the activity zone of a village in the south of the Alsace wine route, in a clear and modern setting, vast and bright, like a loft to his measure , which has a view of the vineyards from afar. Her sister Patricia is busy at reception and in the dining room, with a smile, proposing the great ideas of the moment. The sommelier Amandine Navarette, Parisian naturalized Alsatian, juggles with the pretty wines from here and nearby, in white and red, dry or sweet. In short, we are very happy to feast at reasonable prices, according to a constantly updated menu. This is the best table of the moment to discover in Alsace during a getaway on the wine route on the southern side.

Da Roco in London

The facade of Da Roco 16 © GP

The happy trio of Da Roco – Alexandre Giesbert (the son of our friend FOG, formerly trained with Pierre Gagnaire and with Eric Briffard at the Elysées du Vernet), Romain Glize, Julien Ross – continues to be a hit on the street Vivienne, in Jean-Paul Gaultier’s former showroom, as in the former Zebra Square, opposite the Maison de la Radio, revisited as a fine Italian restaurant in their playful way, with crunchy pizzas (like the parmigiana, with its tomato sauce, fior di lattesmoked scarmozza, aubergine, datterino tomato, parmesan), a fine vitello tonnato, with its small fried capers, linguine (with lemon butter) with a sea bream tartare or even an “affogamisu” which constitutes a funny mixed between affogato and tiramisu. Now the same team is preparing to cross the Channel and open a 3rd “Da Roco”. It will be, within a month, in London, in the trendy district of Soho. Success in sight…

Fanny Mijon vegan princess

Fanny Mijon © GP

She worked in luxury, fashion and jewelry. Fanny Mijon drifted towards the kitchen by passion, after having worked for more than a year in pastry at “VG patisserie” boulevard Voltaire. She has made her table dedicated to organic and plant-based cuisine, The Friendly Kitchen”, vegan and open, the place of her colorful and tasty research. On the program: a festival of vegetables in all their forms, according to their seasons with spices and flavors from elsewhere. Like the “carrot ceviche”, the three-way spiced sweet potatoes or the “asparagus cheesecake”. Fanny Mijon has also published a recipe book with her best tricks. His Parisian table, located 8 Rue Popincourt in the 11th, is undeniably worth the detour.

Pub Pudlo trophies are coming

We had a word with you a few weeks ago. The event is approaching. We will celebrate the Parisian bistros on May 9. Our ambition, with Paris as a starting point: to celebrate each year, with spring, the excellence of the bistro as an art of living. With exclusive content, a selection, events plus a guide highlighting this culinary heritage that the whole world envies us. To do this, we have been able to count on partners attached to these same values: Staub and its casseroles, queens of simmering, the Rungis market, rich ambassador of our terroirs, the Vignobles & Signatures club and its 17 family estates, Alain Fontaine and its association of Bistrots & Cafés de France, the Ile-de-France region, which includes Paris, the gourmet capital, plus KNS Lease, which helps young restaurateurs to get started financially. For the occasion, a newborn arrives: “Le Petit Pudlo des Bistrots”, offered to all, which, in addition to the 6 winners of this 2022 edition, will present a selection of 70 favorite bistros across all the Parisian districts. This collection of good addresses, places of atmosphere and gourmet HQ will be distributed free of charge from May 14 in the 70 award-winning addresses but also available here, in PDF, all year round, from May 9. Something to inspire you to rediscover these places of conviviality and celebrate with us the spring of the bistros.

In Monaco, Em Sherif replaces Omer

Em Sherif’s team © AA

Chefs and brands are on the move like never before in the Principality of Monaco. Yannick Alléno has just installed his Pavyllon in the Hôtel Hermitage, with the complicity of his Parisian decorator Chahan Minassian and the relay in the kitchen of his disciple Guillaume Bellayer. Mélanie Serre, who bought the fund of her Louis Vins (in the 5th district of Paris) from Philippe Austruy with her friend Bertrand Guillou-Valentin, will be, throughout the summer period, the chef of Elsa, where she will be responsible for recover the star that flew this year at the Monte-Carlo Beach. The latest Monegasque novelty, on the SBM side? The installation of Em Sherif, a prestigious Lebanese table which replaces Omer, a Mediterranean brasserie signed Alain Ducasse, which occupied a corner with a garden on the ground floor of the Hôtel de Paris. At the helm: chef Mireille Hayek, who has created thirteen franchised addresses, from the Middle East to London (at Harrod’s) and whose daughter, Yasmina, passed through the Bocuse Institute in Ecully, Mathieu Pacaud, Jean-François Piège and Rasmus Kofoed in Copenhagen, pilots the Monegasque menu in three versions: Em Sherif Restaurant, Em Sherif Café, Em Sherif Sea Café. Plus a shisha lounge bar with sea view. To find out more, click here.

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