pasta and “viril pecorino” (Adventures of a Gourmand Wanderer)

LThe oldest of our dialects and readers remember: Diacritik had opened its columns to literary recipes. Thus was constituted a gustatory anthology, Book and cookswho returns today with the great Jim Harrison and his Adventures of a foodie wandererpublished in 2002, by Christian Bourgois, in a translation by Brice Matthieussent.
For the author of Dalva, there is nothing banal about these two daily activities, eating and drinking: “eating in America: here is a huge puzzle with thousands of pieces, many of which have been lost, and which leads to the final image of a slide show of our history” . His A’svagrant foodie ventures are a succession of feasts, an endless list of varied (and often invigorating) pleasures and the commentary on culinary practices like the chapter he devotes to John Thorne’s book, Outlaw cook (Outlaw Cook):

“To consider Thorne ‘only’ as a food writer would be to consider Raymond Chandler ‘only’ as a thriller writer. Outlaw cook contains a dimension and resonance of experience found almost nowhere else in American gastronomic literature, except in that very rare creature that is MFK Fisher. (…) As Thorne writes, “all I wanted to do was go into the kitchen and cook. Why is such a simple thing so difficult? Here we must remember Umberto Eco’s observation of America’s obsession with imitation: we are overwhelmed, engulfed by a culture where the media keeps us away from possible authenticity at all times, at the profit from a muddy approximation. » From an outlaw cook to Eco, from cooking to American culture, we have all the salt of this book by Jim Harrison. Cooking is a prism for expressing oneself and seizing its era.

But let’s not delay any longer, here is the pasta promise: “Heat a reasonable quantity of fragrant olive oil, chop three, five or seven cloves of garlic, sauté them until the desired softening, pick some fresh herbs, basil or sage are strongly recommended, add a few peppers, Greek olives or anchovies as you like, immerse in boiling water your half a pound or less of good imported pasta (San Francisco will suffice), drain then mix, before sprinkling a good handful of manly pecorino. »

Jim Harrison, Adventures of a Gourmet Wanderer. The cooked and the rawtranslated from English (USA) by Brice Matthieussent, Christian Bourgois editions, January 2002.

Ventimiglia © Christine Marcandier

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