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In their recently three-Michelin-starred Provençal restaurant, Dimitri and Marielle Droisneau have imposed their style, freeing themselves from the pompous protocols generally imposed by these prestigious places.
“Cooking is not a priesthood.” Escaped from the mouth of a chef who won his third Michelin star at the beginning of the year, the sentence is surprising. But Dimitri Droisneau, who runs the Villa Madie with his wife Marielle Droisneau, in Cassis (Bouches-du-Rhône), immediately completes: “It’s not an obsession but it’s a passion. I think about it all the time: at the pool, on the paddleboard, while diving, when I’m mountain biking…” In the cove of Corton, set above a pocket beach, from which it is separated by lush vegetation (umbrella pines, bougainvillea, etc.), Villa Madie offers a breathtaking view of the sea and the cliffs. rock of an almost ocher color. Above all, the corner is an unlimited source of inspiration: “I scuba dive, so when the red mullet feeds on a sea urchin, it’s something I can recreate,” illustrates Dimitri Droisneau.
On the plate, it gives a long and very thin slice of red mullet carpaccio, to be dipped in a nice sea urchin sauce. But the cook is not the type either to serve up the fashionable discourse, the little (elevator) music of the “guy touched by grace seeing a tomato grow”. “I’m not going to hang around all day behind a calf. The kitchen…